Taking Cover Cropping to the Next Level

cereal rye and hairy vetch bed

cereal rye and hairy vetch bed

Covering cropping is an excellent addition to any gardening or mini-farming venture.  If you’ve seen some of my recent posts, you know that I have been focused on expanding my use of cover crops to improve the heavy clay soil conditions of our mini-farm and homestead.  I’ve been experimenting with a few cover crops over the last couple years including cereal rye and alfalfa. Most recently, I’ve started experimenting with the Tillage Radish.

There are many benefits to cover cropping that I’ve written about in the past including:

  • Building a healthy garden,
  • Feeding the soil with non-chemical nutrients,
  • Building a healthy ecosystem,
  • Creating sustainability for your mini-farm and homestead, and
  • To me, it’s just downright fun!

As we continue to look for resources to grow our knowledge in cover cropping, we recently came across a great educational DVD on cover cropping for the home garden that I just had to share. It’s Cindy Conner’s Cover Crops and Compost Crops IN Your Garden.  In this DVD, Cindy walks us through a year in her garden from March to November and shows us how she uses cover crops to really improve her soil fertility and gain greater production from her garden with less work.  In this and a few future posts, I’ll take you through several of my key notes from watching the video.

Year-Round Gardening with Cover Crops Concept

One of her overall concepts I especially like is the idea of year-round gardening using cover crops.  No, this is not digging and harvesting and tending the garden in the winter months.  But, it’s letting the cover crops silently do their work to protect and feed the soil in preparation for the growing time.  It’s also using cover crops between planting to build and protect the soil for the next main crop.  Plus, the cover crops provide an excellent source of biomass (both brown and green) for mulch or as a feed source for the ever-important compost pile.  In essence, the cover crops you grow create a closed loop system for building soil fertility on your mini-farm reducing the need for brining in outside materials.

Garden Planning

Her year-round cover cropping plan is based on the idea that no garden soil should be left bare.  The soil always wants to be covered, and if you don’t intentionally cover it, something will fill the void which will likely be unwanted weeds.  Yuck!  We should be more intentional about managing our soil by always having productive crops growing in all areas of our garden.

Gardening this way takes a little more effort in planning to ensure you have the right timing for the cover crops versus your main crops.  You don’t want to have cereal rye growing in a bed or area where you plan on planting early lettuce for example.  It would be a lot of work to get the thick rye out before planting the lettuce in early spring conditions.  I found this out the hard way in one of my early experiments.  Sure wish I had Cindy’s DVD then!

We should be planning better anyways, and with just a little more effort she says it will all come together.  She even has another DVD that helps us with the planning process.  I haven’t purchased that one yet as I’m going to try it on my own.  I’ve been working on my revised plan recently and it does take a little more time to get my head around the timing aspect, but I’m sure after one or two iterations it will become second nature.

The primary cover crops Cindy uses and which I’ll talk more about in later posts are:

  • Cereal rye
  • Oats
  • Wheat
  • Hairy Vetch
  • Medium Red Clover
  • Alfalfa
  • Field Peas
  • Austrian Winter Peas

Key Planning Factors to Consider

As we think about putting together our sustainable garden plan, Cindy describes several key factors to prepare and consider.  Some of these factors include:

  • Develop a garden layout and number the planting areas of our gardens.  It makes planning easier if we have a permanent bed structure as used in the John Jeavons Grow Biointensive gardening system.  Cindy’s beds are 4 feet by 20 feet or 80 square feet each.  This is the method I use.  Our bed were prepared with help from our laying hens in chicken tractors that are 4 by 10.
  • Plan the cover crop plantings around the crop rotation cycle.  Many of us already know about rotating our crops to ensure the same plant families don’t grow in the same planting area year after year.  This helps reduce disease and pest problems and soil nutrient drain.  As an example, if we plan on planting corn in a bed next season, we should be planting a legume cover crop such as clover or vetch in that bed this season.  These cover crops will provide nitrogen that the corn will need next season.
  • Plan the right timing for the particular cover crops.  As I mentioned before, Cindy instructs us to time the cover crop harvest to coincide with the planting of the main crop.  Also, don’t leave a long space of time between harvesting the cover crop and planting the main crop so that the soil is not bare for too long to limit weed growth.  If we have about a 30 day span delay, she recommends planting buckwheat as a cover crop in the interim.

Cindy has definitely packed a tremendous amount of information in this 66 minute DVD.  Laura and I have already watched it several times since getting it a last week, and I have already started making several changes in this year’s garden plan to incorporate the techniques Cindy shares.  Cindy also has some really good information in her blog, so be sure to check it out for more cover crop tips and techniques.

In my next post on cover cropping, I’ll talk more about my notes on the different crops she uses.

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Homemade Hummus – A Great Snacking Dip

homemade hummus

homemade hummus

Several years ago, when my husband and I were having lunch at the Missouri Botanical Gardens, I ordered hummus dip to go with my chips instead of salsa.  I was instantly hooked!  I love the unique texture and hearty flavor found in this dip.

I have wanted to learn how to make hummus for a long time.  Today was the perfect day to experiment.  We are in the middle of a winter storm on steroids—for Missouri anyway.  Larry is home this afternoon and I am taking advantage of his help to create a couple of hummus dips.

garbanzo beans

garbanzo beans

I took my inspiration from the Money Saving Mom website.  She has a great post on Hummus and I followed her recipe for basic hummus.  I did soak my garbanzo beans, also called chick peas, overnight and then cooked them the following morning.

Ingredients:

  • 11/2 Cups cooked chick peas (about ¾ cup dry)
  • 2 cloves minced garlic
  • 2 tsp lemon juice
  • ¼ tsp onion powder
  • ¼ tsp pepper
  • ½ tsp salt
  • ¼ -1/2 Cup of water
food processing hummus

food processing hummus

Directions:

Combine the first 6 ingredients in a food processor and mix.  Add the water ¼ cup at a time until desired smoothness.  We only used ¼ cup of water, but we like our dips a little chunky.  Use a spatula to scoop out the yummy hummus.

We tried a second batch and added hot red peppers.  It has a great kick to it.  Serve with veggie sticks or chips. The kids just love it, not to mention Larry and I.

homemade hummus with hot peppers

homemade hummus with hot peppers

Do you have any variations on hummus dip?

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Tillage Radish Cover Crop Update Six

Tillage Radish update 2-18-13 large beds

Tillage Radish update 2-18-13 large beds

Here’s update number six in my Tillage Radish cover crop experiment.  With the winter cold and occasional warm days doing its work on the radishes, the tubers are decaying and decomposing nicely.

The tubers in the larger beds are still protruding from the ground but the tubers themselves are completely hollow and will decay rapidly once springs comes on.  The upper smaller beds are almost completely decayed leaving some large holes as seen in the picture below. To my delight, the experiment is working just as planned.  It has been fun discussing and “show-and-telling” the experiment with my church friends.  Several are ready to try the experiment themselves this fall.

Tillage Radish update 2-18-13 a

Tillage Radish update 2-18-13 a

Tillage Radish update 2-18-13 closeup

Tillage Radish update 2-18-13 closeup

Here are the past updates:

Update Five (01/01/13)

Update Four (11/27/12)

Update Three (10/5/12)

Update Two (9/5/12)

Update One (8/10/12)

 

 

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Starting Onions from Seed

homemade indoor growing station

homemade indoor growing station

To get the gardening season started and break up the doldrums of winter, I like to get things going by starting onions from seed.  Onions can be grown from seeds, sets or plants.  Sets are generally the most popular way to start onions since they can be started directly in the garden without danger of frost damage.  I liketo start onions from seed.

Starting onions from seeds instead of sets gives you an opportunity to try different varieties that are usually not available if starting from onion sets.  This year I’m growing White Sweet Spanish Utah’s and Candy onions.

I started this year’s batch last weekend.  The seeds should be started about 10 weeks before putting them in the ground in the spring.  In my zone 5, I plant them in the garden around the 1st week in April.  The seeds take about 5 – 8 days to germinate in a temperature range from 65 to 80 degrees.  I keep the ambient temperature in the mid-70’s using the florescent lights in my homemade indoor growing station.

I’m using 12” x 18” x 6” seed flats to start the onions.  A friend made these seed flats for me modeled after the seed flats used by John Jeavons and the Bountiful Gardens group.  I keep the onions in the flats for the entire indoor growing time.

seed flat

seed flat

It has been about 6 days since I planted the seeds and they are starting to emerge.  They come up as a very tiny, green hair-like fiber.  They’ll continue to grow tall with the roots growing down long and stringy.   When the onions reach about 6” tall, I’ll give them a “haircut” to keep them at about 3” until they are ready to transplant.  As the onions grow, they’ll also get thicker with the bulb starting to form.

small onion plant emerging

small onion plant emerging

So what are you waiting for?  If you’re looking to break-up the winter and get back in the gardening mode, starting onions is the perfect way to go.  Give it a try and let me know how it goes!

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DIY Cake Pops

Pink cake pops.

Pink cake pops.

One of my good friends taught me how to make these adorable little cake pops. I have a cake pop maker, but you can make them just as good without the maker. It is an awesome project to do with little kids. Cake pops are a great little treat to take to parties or to just enjoy yourself. This is how to make them without the cake pop maker.

Things you’ll need:

  • Cookie Sheet
  • Wax paper
  • Cake pop stand
  • Cake pop sticks
  • Cake box mix of choice
  • ¼ cup of frosting
  • Dipping chocolate or chocolate chips
  • Sprinkles (optional)

 

Step one

Melt chocolate on low in small crock pot or on stove. Add a little oil if needed to thin the chocolate. Bake a cake by following the directions on the back of the cake mix. Cool the cake completely.

Step two

When cake is completely cooled, crumble it up with your hands in a big bowl. Make sure you crumble the cake completely. Add the frosting and combine. Roll a little of the cake in a ball to test the mixture. If it does not stick together, add more frosting to the crumbled cake. If it is too sticky add a little more crumbled cake to the mixture.

Step three

Roll cake mixture into small balls and place on a cookie sheet covered with wax paper. Put cake pops in freezer until they are hard-about fifteen minutes.

Step four

Dip the tips of the cake pop sticks in the chocolate then stick them through the cake pops. Be careful not to push the stick all the way through the other side of the cake pop. Freeze again till the sticks are firm in the cake pops.

Step five

Dip the cake pops in the melted chocolate and place them on the cake pop stand and freeze till hard. Enjoy!

You will need to store them in the freezer, because they melt pretty fast.

 

 

 

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What You Can Learn From the Juab County PVC Drip Irrigation System

Even though it’s still winter, it’s time to start preparing for the new garden season.  This year it appears we may experience low rainfall again like last year.  If that is the case, planning for more usage of a PVC drip irrigation system is the perfect solution.

I developed my current system several years ago, but I was looking for new ideas to try out.  I came across this great article by Jeffery E. Banks on Designing a Basic PVC Home Garden Drip Irrigation System.  Jeff explains the system very well and provides a good, brief case study of the Juab County system. As a visual learner, I like to see what things look like and then copy them.  Within the article, Jeff provides several picture examples of his and other gardens including the Juab County garden.

Benefits of the PVD Drip Irrigation System

Jeff goes through several benefits of using a PVC drip irrigation system some of which include the following:

  • Water savings, with root zone watering
  • Less stress on the plant
  • Less weed growth
  • Versatility of design for different terrain

I’ll also add that the homemade PVC system can be of much lower cost than commercial drip irrigation systems.  And, I just like working with PVC.  Okay, call me weird!

The Juab County PVC system is really cool.  I like the way they set up their header manifold system and the plugging idea for lateral lines not in use.  Since they are covering a large area, they use 1 inch PVC for the main trunk line with the lateral lines appearing to be ¾ or ½ inch.

He Uses 1/16 Inch Holes in the Lateral Lines

He recommends using 1/16 inch holes in the lateral lines whereas I use 3/32.  I like the slightly bigger holes, but the 1/16 inch would make it more of a drip system.  I especially like his hole spacing ideas for different types of crops.  For corn, bean, carrots, and peas, he recommends hole spacing of every 6 inches.  For tomatoes or bigger plants, he describes a grouping of 3 holes, 2 to 3 inches apart every 3 to 5 feet.  This is a great concept I’m going to try.

Ball Valves to Control Flow and Fertilizer Injection Application

He shows the use of ball valves at different points in the PVC system to control flow and flow rate to the various locations.  To add nutrients to the plants while watering, he also describes how you can use a fertilizer injector to save time and put the fertilizer right at the root zone using the PVC system.  I don’t recommend using chemical fertilizer as he briefly mentions, but there is still great opportunity for using this approach to easily apply fertilizer whether liquid or dry water-soluble types.

Take Home:  Now’s the time to start planning your irrigation system and the Juan County PVC drip irrigation system is a great model to use.  Go get some pencil and paper and start designing your system!

Great work Jeff!  Thanks for your helpful article.

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